Excited to Exhausted: Traveling While Overweight in Thailand
I never thought a set of stairs could change our lives.
We had arrived on the gorgeous tropical island of Phi Phi on the first of a two week vacation touring Thailand. We woke up late, having spent much of the night watching tourists drunkenly kickbox at a bar near our beach bungalow, and had a few hours to kill before taking a boozy boat cruise to the 11th most beautiful beach in the world. When I suggested to Wilmarie that we make the trek to the Phi Phi island viewpoint, it was described to me as a “leisurely 30 minute stroll.”
The experience was many things, but it was far from “leisurely” for us.
I used to be very “Indoorsy”
by Wilmarie
Before I go into details, I should say that I was never a very athletic kid. Growing up in Puerto Rico, going to the beach was the only active and outdoorsy thing I liked to do. I could just sit on the sand, eat, drink, float, relax, and enjoy nature.
All other nature activities felt like work to me. I needed to be in a great physical shape to enjoy them. And I wasn’t.
As I grew older, I attempted some fitness activities but never really stuck to any. My post-college friends ran marathons, competitively lifted weights, and practiced crossfit, so I became a bit more open minded, but I would mostly avoid outdoor activities whenever possible. No, I won’t join you on the 5K, but I’d still stand in the crowd and support you.
| 1. | I used to be very “Indoorsy” |
| 2. | Like Riding a Bike |
| 3. | The Stairs That Beat Me |
| 4. | Thailand We Have a Problem |
| 5. | Beautiful Views I Couldn’t Enjoy |
I never thought a set of stairs could change our lives.
We had arrived on the gorgeous tropical island of Phi Phi on the first of a two week vacation touring Thailand. We woke up late, having spent much of the night watching tourists drunkenly kickbox at a bar near our beach bungalow, and had a few hours to kill before taking a boozy boat cruise to the 11th most beautiful beach in the world. When I suggested to Wilmarie that we make the trek to the Phi Phi island viewpoint, it was described to me as a “leisurely 30 minute stroll.”
The experience was many things, but it was far from “leisurely” for us.
| 1. | I used to be very “Indoorsy” |
| 2. | Like Riding a Bike |
| 3. | The Stairs That Beat Me |
| 4. | Thailand We Have a Problem |
| 5. | Beautiful Views I Couldn’t Enjoy |
I used to be very “Indoorsy”
by Wilmarie
Before I go into details, I should say that I was never a very athletic kid. Growing up in Puerto Rico, going to the beach was the only active and outdoorsy thing I liked to do. I could just sit on the sand, eat, drink, float, relax, and enjoy nature.
All other nature activities felt like work to me. I needed to be in a great physical shape to enjoy them. And I wasn’t.
As I grew older, I attempted some fitness activities but never really stuck to any. My post-college friends ran marathons, competitively lifted weights, and practiced crossfit, so I became a bit more open minded, but I would mostly avoid outdoor activities whenever possible. No, I won’t join you on the 5K, but I’d still stand in the crowd and support you.
Like Riding a Bike
by Ryan
In contrast with Wilmarie, I was a student athlete for most of my youth, and as an adult I could hardly ever sit still. Growing up on the east coast of the U.S.A., I was never more than a few hours drive from the Appalachian trail and the abundance of natural parks and mountains were always my favorite places to go. The joy of exercising and the tranquility of the great outdoors was always something I wanted to share with Wilmarie, but I truly never knew how.
In 2013 when we had our first date, Wilmarie told me that she never learned to ride a bike without training wheels and I couldn’t let it go. Some of my greatest memories occurred tearing down my neighborhood at breakneck speeds, and I wanted her to experience it too. So I rented a bike, bought a helmet and drove us to a nearby park to practice.
The experience was rough. Wilmarie was terrified of balancing on two wheels and embarrassed that others might make fun of her. During the intensive weekends of practice she yelled, screamed, cursed, and even threw the bike against the ground a few times. But she never gave up.
Wilmarie is still not comfortable riding a bike, but after completing a full 8-mile ride I knew she could accomplish anything she set her mind to. I guess that’s why I figured the Phi Phi viewpoint climb wouldn’t be much of a challenge for her.
The Stairs That Beat Me
by Wilmarie
As the years passed and our relationship blossomed, Ryan pushed us to explore other activities, but life had other plans. As I dealt with emotional abuse from a terrible boss, the loss of my father, and homesickness, I neglected my health and gained 50 lbs in 4 years. I still pushed myself to do things I liked, but always leaning towards the side of comfort.
In the Winter of 2017, Ryan and I planned a trip to Thailand for my birthday. The trip was everything I needed after living through six months of excruciating grief. Nearly everyday we lounged on powdery white sand beaches, swam in sparkling clear waters, and ate delicious exotic food.
When Ryan suggested we visit the viewpoint on Phi Phi Island I expected more of the same. Travel blogs described the view from the top as “magnificent,” giving the best view from the very heart of the island. I thought it sounded nice, but I didn’t pay attention to the physical demands required to even get there.
Thailand We Have a Problem
by Ryan
Phi Phi is a beautiful island, but if you’re planning a trip don’t expect to get anywhere unless you plan to hoof it.
The main island strip is made up mostly of small bars, hostels, and makeshift stalls to sell pizza, GoPros, and boat tours to tourists. The sparsely paved streets aren’t wide enough for cars and typically packed with throngs of backpackers. So it makes sense that the stairs to the 610-foot high island summit were a narrow, uneven slabs of concrete that stretched ever upwards, disappearing into a humid tropical jungle.
I knew there was a problem as soon as Wilmarie saw the steps.
Beautiful Views I Couldn’t Enjoy
by Wilmarie
The Internet says it takes 30 minutes to climb to the viewpoint, But to me it felt like hours. The whole way up I was breathing hard, complaining, scoffing, and upset. Eventually I made it to the top and the view was gorgeous, but I couldn’t enjoy it. I was too tired, too angry and disappointed in myself.
In the past, I’ve have never let my circumstances stopped me from doing what I want. I LOVE travelling, exploring, and going on adventures. But I knew if I wasn’t in better shape, my body would limit the things I wanted to do. I had to get in better shape.
As I overlooked Phi Phi island with Ryan I resolved to make a change. We had already planned to visit Machu Picchu (Perú) in May and I wanted to throw myself at a challenge. I asked Ryan to hike the nearly 9,000 foot tall Wayna Picchu (or Huayna Picchu) mountain with me the following May, and he agreed. I knew I needed to train harder than ever before to climb the mountain and still enjoy myself at the top, but I refused to let those stairs in Thailand crush me. I only had 4 months to prepare, but I was determined to redeem myself.
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